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The Techniques In Training a Dog

For most dog handlers, they believe that positive reinforcement is the best way to train a dog. Yes, it may be for some but this might not work for the others. So before taking on any of the principles discussed, it is still better to have an assessment of your dog’s behavior prior to any training. In this way, you will know which of the principles would give you the best chance of success when it comes to training your dog.

Naturally, every pet owner would like their dogs to behave and learn obedience so they train their dogs either with the help of a handler or just by themselves. Unfortunately, not all pet trainings can be thought of as successful. Most of the time training fails because there are some things that may have been over looked. Let’s talk about dog training and the things involved with it.

A cat is not a dog; a cat does not act like a dog, think like a dog or behave like a dog. If you want a pet that behaves as a dog, get a dog not a cat. That said, let’s get to the point of understanding cat behavior. Punishing a cat for wrong behavior is like trying to empty the ocean one-cup at a time. Try as you may, you will never empty the ocean or get your cat to understand why you are punishing him/her.

Punishment will never cure bad behavior; it will only make your cat frightened and leery of you. Cats are smart enough to know that once punished for a misdeed they will not do it again, in front of you. They will wait until your back is turned or you are out the door. Though you may believe your cat understands what you are saying, or rather yelling about, it will pay you no heed except to run away, ignore you or wait to do it again later.

A perfect example is our male cat Smokey, he dislikes our female cat Tiger and every chance he gets he will chase her. However, if he starts out to chase her and then sees me he stops, looks at me and then will turn away as if he was just out taking a walk. He knows I will say “No” quite loudly and scold him. Of course, it doesn’t do any good to scold him, but it makes me feel better.

There are several good reasons why your cat does what it does to annoy you. First of all, cats really don’t have a good grasp of the English language; they are not furry little people. However, they do understand positive and negative responses to their actions. Cats love praise, pets and treats and this is our secret weapon. Screaming, yelling, spanking or throwing (heaven forbid) will only traumatize your cat and make it fearful of you.

Stop for a moment and think about the life your cat is leading (okay, you wish you could lead that life) take into consideration its day. You are at work all day and may get home late and tired. Your fur ball has been sleeping all day and wants to play.

You want to sit, eat and watch TV. You give your cat a few pets and while you are doing that he/she gives you a little nip on your hand. You react by jumping up and possibly yelling and chasing him/her. Hey, this is fun your cat got your attention and you are “playing.” We humans sometimes reward our cats for their bad behavior by giving them the attention they want.

In our house I am the perfect example of what not to do. Our Smokey is a night eater. Why? Cause he sleeps all day while I am at work. He started at a young age to come into our bedroom and nudge me with his head when he wanted to be fed, even though I would feed him before I went to sleep. Knowing what he wanted I would get up and feed him. This would happen several times a night and I would get up (truthfully this has been going on for years.)

However, since I started doing research for this book I suddenly came to realize that this is silly, the cat is not starving and I do not have to get up at all hours. I gradually started to push him away (nicely) whenever he nudged me and quietly said “No” as a result he moved over to the nightstand where he likes to sleep and laid down. It has been several weeks and he will once in a while nudge me and I say “no” and he goes away and waits until he sees me stir. Most cats when they are doing “wrong behavior” are really doing exactly what a cat should be doing.

Cats need to scratch and stretch their claws. It is a natural thing to do and it feels good. It is up to you as the pet parent to provide scratching material, whether it is the couch or a scratching post, it is immaterial to the cat. Cats learn by experience, if they do something and it turns out to be a good experience in their eyes, they will do it again, a bad experience may eliminate, the behavior or they just might try it again to see if something good happens.

One important thing to remember, if your cat suddenly starts doing things that he/she never attempted before and the behavior is not to your liking, observe the current situation in your household. Have there been sudden and unusual changes in the household routine, new furniture, new people or a new pet? Has there been a change in your cat’s bathroom routine; is kitty eating, do you notice any changes in your cat’s grooming habits?

It does not take much to disturb the serenity of a cat’s world as cats like routine and changes can cause reactions, which are not always to their liking. Also, consider medical problems, your cat may not feeling well and this too can cause behavioral problems. Since cats cannot talk they may misbehave in order to show their concern or displeasure to the changes that have occurred.

Here are a few thoughts to keep in mind while you are trying to reform kitty.

First of all stop all reprimands and punishment– they seldom do any good anyway. Make life with your cat fun and rewarding. Create an environment for yourself and your cat that satisfies you both. Remember a cat does not read minds and has little knowledge of English.

Help your cat understand what you want it to do by making the “yes” experiences rewarding and finding ways to eliminate most of the “no” experiences. We are going to list below some typical behavioral problems and possible solutions. It is important should you have any questions about your cat’s behavior that you consult your vet to discuss it.

Aggressive behavior: Can be caused by fear, being disturbed when napping, injury or sickness, or being in a bad mood.

Solution: Should the cat nip or scratch you while petting, say NO and stop petting. Do not play rough with your cat as it does not know nice from not nice. Were you petting or scratching in
a sensitive area of the cat’s body? If your cat hisses or its ears are flattened back, leave the cat alone. Check for injury.

Begging: Can be caused by the cat being hungry or just wanting attention.

Solution: Feed the cat just before your sit down to eat or if the begging is for attention take a minute or two to pet and talk to your cat a little quality attention will go a long ways.

Constant meowing: Females that are not spayed will meow constantly while looking for a “fellow.” Or your cat may need some quality time with you, remember just a few minute of undivided attention will do wonders. Another thought is your cat may be ill or hurt.

Solution: Spay or neuter your cat (really should anyway), give your cat some quality time, cats need to know that they are loved, or your cat maybe sick or hurt, especially if the crying occurs when kitty is trying to go to the bathroom. If so, take a quick trip to the vet or call for advice.

Jumping on the counters and/or furniture: Cats love high places and cats are generally nosey, exploring is part of a cat’s nature.

Solution: When it comes to the counters, stove and the dining table in our house, a consistent NO and placing the cat on the floor worked fine. It took several tries at this, but it worked. Another solution is put double sticky tape on the counter for a day or two, the cat will walk on it and get stuck, not a good experience and will stop, as it is no fun. Also keep food and other attractive smells off the counter or table. Things that make noise and may fall off the counter also work, as it will scare the cat. Cats do not like to be scared.

If your cat is getting on the furniture and you do not want that, provide a comfortable nesting place high up if possible. There are window seats that you can fasten to a window sill. We have a small bed on top of a section of our entertainment center where our female can escape.

If you have a particular piece of furniture you do not want the cat on, put foil, plastic or some inexpensive netting that you can buy at a fabric store over it when you are not at home. Cats do not like the feel of that and will stay off it and soon will ignore it. There are also things called “scat mats” which can be purchased on the Internet or at major pet stores.

Fighting with other cats: Cats are inclined to protect their habitat, they might be looking to mate, and some cats just want to show who is boss.

Solution: First of all spay or neuter your cat as they make much better pets and are less inclined to fight. Never break up a cat fight with your hands. Use a hose to spray them, throw a towel on them or make a loud noise to scare them. If your resident cats are having a dispute, separate them by putting them in separate rooms for a while. Usually they will simmer down and become tolerant of each other again.

In our household a sharp “No” works for a while with our male and female. Be certain to give each one plenty of affection, out of sight of each other. Some cats are like people and they just don’t like each other no matter what you try to do.

In our household our female is wise enough to stay out of Smokey’s reach. Smokey doesn’t want to fight with her, he just wants to chase her.

Spraying: A cat operates on smell and spraying is a natural way to mark its territory. Also a cat will spray if it feels threatened, stressed or anxious.

Solution: Spay or neuter your pet to decrease the need to be overly territorial. Give your pet a lot of pets and attention, as it may feel stressed and/or unloved.

Provide a safe haven preferably high up (off the ground) if you pet feels threatened by another household pet.

If your cat is spraying near or on a window your pet may be marking its territory because of an outside cat. Keep curtains or drapes closed.

Do not punish your cat for spraying as it may increase his/her anxiety. Using a citrus-based cleaner will remove the scent and keep kitty hopefully from doing it again. We have found that the male cats usually do spraying, we have not seen our females do it, though they might. Interestingly, when our one male cat sprayed there was no odor after we had him neutered. However, the spraying left an oily substance that had to be cleaned up. There is a spray you can buy that has a calming effect on cats and has helped in stopping the spraying it is called “Feliway” and it can be purchased at major pet stores and on the Internet.

Scratching and tearing furniture: Scratching is a natural instinct of a cat. Boredom or a lack of a scratching post can cause the problem.

Solution: Scratching is part of a cat’s life it provides exercise, an opportunity to stretch, relieves stress and allows them to shed their claws. If your cat is a house cat and does not have the opportunity to find a tree or post to scratch, it is up to you the pet parent to provide one. Cats are not overly particular about what they scratch as long as it fulfills its criteria.

Couches and stereo speakers fit the bill nicely. Providing a good scratching post (actually several are better) is a great alternative to your couch. You can make your own with a little effort or buy one at your favorite pet store. A good scratching post should be at least 2 1/2 to 3 feet tall, be sturdy enough so it won’t fall over and scare the cat and be covered with either hemp rope or the reverse side of some leftover carpet.

Do not use the right side of the carpet for a post; use the backside as it provides the proper grabbing material. Actually you can make a post that lies on the floor, as long as it is long enough for the cat to stretch out on. There are some inexpensive ones made of cardboard that have a catnip scent that cats enjoy.

When teaching your cat to use the post it is a good idea to rub some catnip on it to attract the kitty. Whenever you see your cat using its post, praise the cat and give it a small treat, this conditions the cat into thinking this is a great thing to do. If you cat is scratching the furniture punishing will not help the matter. Remember that a cat knows better than to do something it has been reprimanded for in front of you.

If kitty is still going back to his/her old tricks the solution is to make the article of choice unacceptable. Cover it with a piece of plastic, foil, double-sided sticky tape or netting you can buy at a fabric store when you are not home. Continue to show kitty the scratching post, give praise and treats for using it, persistence pays on your part and soon kitty will leave your stuff alone.

Some people resort to having their pets declawed. We have a chapter on Declawing in this book. We do not recommend doing that, as there are other alternatives such as clipping your cat’s nails or using the nail covers that are sold in pet stores and glue on the claws.

There are also spray repellents sold in pet stores to use on furniture that make the furniture unattractive to your cat. Scat mats are also available at major pet stores and on the Internet, they give a “static” type shock to the pet that climbs on it (it is not harmful, just annoying.) We have covered what we feel are the most common bad habits of cats in this chapter.

Cats really do not have any bad habits; the things they do are the things that, as one of nature’s critters are natural to them. Climbing, hunting, spraying, biting, fighting, and clawing are all things the natural cat does. We have brought this magnificent creature in from the wild, domesticated it and demanded that it live by our rules. “We’ll see,” says the kitty as it settles down for a nap.

If this article has been of benefit, you might enjoy reading my book “So! You Want to Get a Cat” available on Amozon.com and please visit my web site and blog at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com

Author: Audrey Frederick
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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What is A Growl?

Why Do Dogs Growl?

Not all growls are created equal. To decipher the meaning of a growl, we need to find out why the dog is growling. There are many reasons dogs growl – when playing, dreaming, protecting something of value, if they feel threatened, or scared.

What Does A Growl Mean?

Dog-to-Dog Growls

As mentioned earlier, it’s important to take into consideration the context in which your dog is growling. Remember, dogs don’t have words. They can only use their body language and vocalizations to communicate with their dog friends. Growling is one way dogs communicate with one another. Sometimes dogs growl when they are playing happily with another dog-friend.

Wondering how to tell the difference between a serious and a playful growl? Take a look at the dog’s bodies. Do you see the following?

• “Loose” bodies (not rigid and stiff)
• Mutual playing (both dogs are content to play together, neither one looks scared or threatened)
• Willingness to continue playing together (if one gets the chance to leave, does he?)
• Cooperative play (dogs take turns “winning” or pinning each other)

If you see these things, the dogs are most likely engaging in normal dog-play. If either dog looks scared, looks like they are bullying the other dog, or moves stiffly, it’s time to interrupt play-time and let them settle down before allowing them to play again.

Dogs also growl to communicate their uneasiness. Your dog may growl at another dog if that dog is:

• Unfamiliar
• Too close to a valued object
• Behaving inappropriately (jumping on your dog, for instance)
• Crowding your dog’s space

Dog-to-Human Growls

Much like dog-to-dog growling, dogs have different reasons for growling at humans. Some dogs growl playfully when interacting with humans. Other dogs growl at children, or men with hats, or some other elusive reason. Again, look at the context in which the growling happens – what does the dog’s body language tell you? Is he stiff or floppy?

What NOT To Do If Your Dog Growls

Knowing there are different reasons behind your dogs’ growls, it’s important to pay attention to the situation before deciding what to do with a growl. If the growl is playful, you probably don’t have to do anything about it, unless the growling bothers you. If you think the growl is more serious, it’s important to proceed with caution.

A growl is a good, clear warning signal and one that we should heed. The dog is clearly telling us that he’s not comfortable with the situation. The most important thing to note is that a growl is information. Punishing the dog for growling will not fix the problem. Punishing a growl will only take that form of communication away from your dog. The next time your dog is in the same situation, he will try a different form of communication – this time he may snarl or even snap. If you punish this form of communication, you’ll have a dog that bites without warning.

Forcing your dog to tolerate a situation that makes him uncomfortable is a recipe for disaster. By doing this, you are giving the dog no option to get out of the situation. If, for example, your dog is uncomfortable around small children and you hold your dog’s collar while allowing children to approach your dog, you aren’t helping alleviate your dog’s discomfort. You are actually contributing to the discomfort which could lead to a snarl, snap, or a bite. What to Do

If Your Dog Growls

Your first order of business is to determine what makes your dog uncomfortable in the situation. Is it the presence of small children surrounding him, another dog near a prized possession? Is he scared? Does he feel threatened? Once you know why your dog is uncomfortable, you can then do something about hearing his “call of distress” and do something to help him.

Here are some basic steps to follow. Please note that if you are afraid that your dog will bite, consult a professional positive reinforcement dog trainer and do not proceed with the following steps.

In this example let’s assume the dog is growling when you approach his food bowl.

1. Begin to hand feed your dog his meals. No more food in the bowl. If there isn’t food in the bowl, he’s much less likely to “guard” the bowl. Bonus: And it’s you that gives the dog the food. Therefore you become an important and welcome link to the food.

2. After your dog is eagerly accepting his food from your hand, begin to re-introduce the food bowl. Put the food bowl in your lap and drop three or four pieces of your dog’s food in the bowl. When he finishes those kibbles, drop three or four more in. Continue this until the dog’s entire meal has been eaten.

3. Once your dog is looking forward to your hand moving to his empty bowl to add more food, reserve an extra special treat (chicken, steak, fish – something REALLY delicious that he doesn’t normally get). Put five to ten pieces of food in his bowl and while he’s eating, drop in this delicious morsel. Your dog is learning that really good things happen when your hand moves toward his bowl.

4. If your dog readily accepts your hand approaching his bowl when he has a few kibbles in it, begin putting more kibble

in his bowl and then adding a delicious morsel every few moments.

Note: This process could take days, weeks, or months depending on your dog. Don’t rush these steps. If you are afraid that your dog will bite, DO NOT engage in this process. Find a professional positive reinforcement dog trainer.

By following these steps, you are solving the underlying problem (the dog’s dislike of approaching people) instead of just getting rid of his warning system. If, instead of implementing the steps above, you punished your dog for growling (by yelling or swatting at him, or taking his food bowl away), you are doing two things: (1) reinforcing his belief that people who approach his food bowl are dangerous and (2) getting rid of a perfectly good warning system. You are not, I repeat NOT, fixing the underlying problem.

Dogs can’t use words. It is up to each of us to listen to our dogs and try our best to decipher their language. Not all growls are created equal – know your dog. We expect dogs to listen to us, isn’t it time we start listening to them?

Laurie Luck, CPDT
Certified Pet Dog Trainer
Smart Dog University, LLC
Box 1111
Mount Airy, MD 21771
(240) 848-3468
laurie@smartdoguniversity.com
http://www.SmartDogUniversity.com
———————————————————————————————————————–
Laurie is one of only 1,300 certified pet dog trainers (CPDT) in the world and is the founder of Smart Dog University. She has been helping dogs and their owners for more than a decade. She is passionate about dog-friendly training and eschews punishment.

She works with dog lovers because she understand how frustrating it can be when people want to spend time with their dog, but don’t know how to get him to listen.

She loves what she does and has developed many happy friendships, both canine and human, along the way.

Laurie is owned by four dogs: two Labradors, a Great Dane Hound Cross, and an Australian shepherd.

Author: Laurie Luck
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Ask friends or veterinarian for a pet sitter referral.

Even if you are new in a neighborhood, or don’t know your neighbors well, it’s pretty easy to identify people who value their pet. Ask several neighbors for recommendations. Try to find a little bit about your neighbors pet and their pet sitter experience. This will give you a good indication as to the level of care you can expect from the people they recommend. Many veterinarians, in addition to having boarding facilities, may have a veterinary technician on staff that also provides pet sitting service, or they may know of a high quality pet sitter.

Research your pet sitter.

As you call potential pet sitters ask them the type of animals they like to work with, how long they’ve been in business, how they got started in business, and specific questions about your pet’s needs. People who have some experience as vet techs, animal shelter employees, or veterinary students often supplement their income by pet sitting. Some excellent animal care workers start a pet sitting service if they’ve suffered from career burnout. Pet sitters with these type of credentials can offer the best type of service because they are more likely to recognize illness in your pet, and may be more experienced with administering medications or tending special needs. However, the most important thing is to find someone who will be attentive, reliable and responsible with your pet. Once you feel a level of comfort with a pet sitter, ask for three client referrals. Follow up with the referrals, and use your intuition before you provide the pet sitter a key to your home. If you are not able to get a pet sitter referral in your area and you cold-call a potential pet sitter, I’d recommend a criminal background check on your pet sitter. A quality sitter won’t mind your concerns for safety.

Shop around for services and fees.

Most pet sitters charge a per visit fee, regardless of the number of animals you have. However, if you have more than three animals or an animal that needs medication, it’s normal to expect a slightly higher fee per visit. Ask the pet sitter how much time they will spend with the pet, and what they charge per visit. Some pet sitters give a break if they are doing two visits a day, or if you are taking a long trip. A few pet sitters offer overnight visits-where they sleep at your home. If your trip is long, ask them if they will call or email you every few days.

Meet your pet sitter.

Several weeks prior to your trip, have the pet sitter stop by so she can be introduced to your animals. Watch how they are with your pets. Are they gentle, and non-invasive? If the pet sitter breezes in and out of their first visit with you, most likely that’s what they’ll do when you are paying them to care for the pet. If you have any negative feelings or thoughts, do not give them a key-trust your instincts. However, if you feel comfortable, provide them with a key, and show them around your house; pet food storage, where pets are feed, how to administer medicine, toys, alarm system, and anything else that will make them comfortable. I always encourage my pet sitter to feel free to watch t.v. or take a nap at my house. The more time they spend with the animals, the better.

Final Tips

The day before your trip, call the pet sitter and confirm your travel plans. Inform them of your expected return, but ask them to continue pet care until you call them to say you’ve returned. Leave a note on your kitchen table or refrigerator that has a brief description of each pet, your veterinarian’s name and phone number, unique habits or medical needs, how to reach you, where you will be staying, expected return date, and who to call in case of an emergency-such as your trip being severely delayed or if you have a health emergency. I typically check do a quick check in with my pet sitter every two to three days. This gives me peace of mind. If you require a daily call from your pet sitter, please be respectful of their time and give them a generous tip upon your return. Pay all pet sitting fees promptly. When you consider gas, travel time, and the initial and post visit key exchange, you’ll realize most pet sitter charge a low fee for their time. Also, let your closest neighbors know what your pet sitter looks like, so they won’t be concerned when they see a stranger going in and out of your house or apartment.

If your travel plans are more than 10 days, or if you travel frequently, you may want to consider whether or not you should have a pet, or you may want to find a roommate who loves animals and does not mind taking care of them for you as you travel. Having a pet and finding quality care is similar to being a parent. A reliable pet sitter can make travel plans fun and relaxing.

Kate Garvey is a former Vet Tech and animal rights supporter. She teaches Sound Healing Workshops (throughout the US) and treats clients by appointment in the San Diego area. For more information on how you can use sound for optimal health please visit http://www.InstituteOfSoundHealing.com

Kate is also a freelance writer, published author, and the author of several books; “Aging, Death and Euthanasia-A Guide for People with Pets”, “Summer Pet Care Tips”, and “The Low Risk Guide for Real Estate Investment.”

Author: Kate Garvey
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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This is simply not true, as any parrot owner can tell you. Parrots are intelligent creatures. It requires time and effort, but you can teach your bird to make the connection between a learned word or phrase, and the corresponding object or task. The easiest way to accomplish this is to begin early in your training.

A great way to kick start your speech training is to begin with a word that is easy for your parrot to enunciate. Birds have different vocal abilities than humans, so certain letter sounds are more difficult for them to pick up, like “M” and “S” sounds. Hard sounds, like “P”, “D”, “T”, and “B” are more easily repeated. Start off with something with a lot of hard sounds, to get the bird talking. Once your parrot begins to speak, reward him profusely.

Rewards are an amazing tool. Anything can be used, from praise to food treats to new toys. Try out different techniques, and find something that works for you and your parrot. Each bird has different likes and dislikes, so spend some time finding rewards that your parrot enjoys. Once you’ve found what works for you, stick with it. Birds learn through repetition and consistency, so it’s important that you not vary things too widely.

After your parrot is talking, you can begin to train him to correlate words with objects. You do this in much the same way you would when teaching a child. When feeding your bird, be sure to say the word “food” or “seed” or “eat”. When speaking to your bird, use his name. When rewarding, use phrases like “good bird” or “pretty bird”. When using food treats as reward, say “fruit” or “nut”. Use these words only when handling these items or performing these tasks.

Before you know it, your bird will request what he wants! If you come into the room and he wants attention and time with you, he may shout “good bird”. If he’s hankering for a particular treat, he could ask for it with “nut” or “fruit”. It’s a wonderful feeling of pride and accomplishment to hear your parrot speak, and know that he’s learned how to ask for his needs because you took the time to teach him. Be proud of yourself, you’ve earned it!

Bright and lively groups of birds, flying around the bird feeder is also a great, amusing and relaxing sight to see. That can be one of the logical reasons why there is a rising number of people who are getting more and more interested at investing in decorative bird feeders.

In the past years, people from several countries had become fond of attending to homing pigeons. Now, it is not only pigeons that are catching the attention of people who invest in bird feeders. Other wild birds can also be served by wild bird feeders.

Decorative

Because people would not get anything from their investment at bird feeders aside from the pretty sight of birds coming home and feeding the communal food served to them, bird feeder makers have started making the structures as beautiful as possible to further spice up the sight.

Nowadays, you could see bird feeders that are decoratively designed so that the structures alone are already a pretty good sight to look at. Them having birds would extremely be a pleasure for observers.

There are a number of specialty shops and bird feeder manufacturers which currently distribute decorative wild bird feeders. You would surely be amazed at how these feeders look like. They are in the form of real home structures, and the designs are truly profound and extravagant.

There are special decorative bird feeders that actually costs a lot more expensive than the average home for people. Also take note that several decorative bird feeders are actually designed by good architects and are built from the finest and most flexible raw materials.

Fun collection

Decorative bird feeders can also be fun to collect. Such collections would surely be fun, because they are not just aesthetic, these objects are also extremely useful, especially to birds.

People are greatly admiring the beauty of decorative bird feeders, which become host to a number of colorful and different breeds and seizes of different types of birds.

Each season, there may be different types of birds that may swoon in and troupe around the special bird structures. It is such sights that make collecting decorative bird feeders very much fun.

Migrating birds

The most usual beneficiaries of the decorative bird feeders are the migratory birds who flock out of their area origins during winter. Not only would you be providing food to such migratory organisms. You would also be providing them with temporary shelter or resting place where they can recharge after flying thousands of miles.

Spectators also gaze up and enjoy the event. That way, you would not only help the birds, but also those people, who, even for a few minutes, are relieved of the burdens of their personal problems by being entertained by the breath-taking scenery.

Decorative bird feeders add to the attraction of the bird feeding sight. Find one and see for yourself how your day would be made even brighter by the simple joy and admiration you may derive from simply looking at a bird feeder.

Asian influence

In the market, it is estimated that most bird feeders buyers prefer Asian-inspired decorative bird feeders. It is because Asian houses are basically beautiful and more functional.

Asian influence is also evident in the popular decorative bird feeders nowadays. The materials of such mini-structures are now usually made up of bamboo, wood, porcelain and other Asian materials.

Decorative wild bird feeders, the Asian style, actually look like miniatures of the cozy and homy houses at the Chinese, Indian, Korean, Filipino and Indonesian civilization.

Decorative European and American bird feeders designs are also starting to shoot up, but they still have a long way to go before matching the strong demand for Asian bird feeders.

Seasons

Wild birds are particularly very busy during summer and spring, when they take time to build their own comfortable nests elsewhere. So during these periods, do not expect to your decorative bird feeders to host soirees to these birds.

In other season, when they experience difficulty searching for food or staying at their nests in the wilderness, these wild birds would find sanctuary in your bird feeders.

But during summer and spring, other birds may drop by, especially the migratory birds from offshore, which could make up to added or better sight attraction.

Decorative bird feeders are really the in-thing when it comes to devising temporary shelters and feeding stations to birds. Get one now and enjoy the sights. It would certainly be worth it.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://birdfeeders.topicgiant.com where you can learn more about feeding your backyard birds as well as different types of decorative bird feeders [http://birdfeeders.topicgiant.com/Articles/Decorative_Bird_Feeders.php].

Author: Lee Dobbins
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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